lake champlain and more cycle touring…

With the weather predicted to creep up into the mid-thirties the other week, I decided to organise another impromptu cycle tour to explore the Lake Champlain region in Vermont (USA). Initially, my partner and I had planned a three day (cycle-rest-cycle) round trip of 300km from Montreal to North Hero State Park, situated on the northern tip of the island North Hero and a breeding ground for soft shelled turtles.

At the last minute, however, some friends decided to join the camping aspect of our adventure. They were only able to stay for one night and so we hitched a ride in their car to the lake in order to maximise our time spent together.

Driving also provided extra time to laze on the beach, soak up some sunshine, swim in the lake (first of the year!), watch turtles poke their heads out of the water along the shore line, drink local microbrew and enjoy the incredible scenery.

Upon arriving at the rangers office (after a two hour long queue at the border crossing) we were disappointed to discover the camping area was yet to open for the season. Yet after a secret convergence back in the office, the park rangers decided we could stay. This meant we had the entire camping area to ourselves for the weekend!

Aside from the soft shelled turtles, we saw a forest clearing of fireflies dancing about mysteriously just after dusk. Frogs were also abundant, their croaking echoing throughout the forest as we meandered through the overgrown nature trails. And, of course, with so much marshland alongside the lake, mosquitoes fiercely attacked us despite the gallons of teatree oil in which we drenched ourselves. (I’m still itching from them…)

Dinner was cooked over a wood fire – BBQ potatoes, zucchini, haloumi cheese, tomatoes, apple… then BBQ chocolate and banana for desert. More local beer – Vermont is well known for its microbreweries – was drank and a game of scrabble initiated while the sun began to set spraying a daring mix of reds and oranges across the sky.

I awoke to the chirping of birds on the first morning and spent the first few hours happily writing in my journal and listening to the water break gently against the rock where I sat. It felt so good to be in a quiet and peaceful environment. Each wave gently washed away the stresses and intensity of the city, energy that had built up in just the two weeks I’d been back from my last cycle trip.

Sunday was spent reading, walking around the island, practising yoga, snuggling on the beach, drinking beer and dipping in the lake…

Then came Monday. Cycling day. What a treat to have had two days of restful bliss beforehand. 150km is a long way to cycle in one day! The most I’ve ever cycled in one day previous to this was 100km…

The day began with a missing nut on the bolt of my back wheel. Uh-oh. Not a good thing when you’ve got to ride on your bike all day! Presumably it had fallen off while on the back of the car two days prior. hmmm… what to do?

We wanted to make an early start and leave by 7am, but the nearest town was only 20km away and this meant we’d arrive by 8am. We didn’t think the hardware store – if indeed there was one – would be open before 9am. But since there wasn’t much point speculating and worrying – we’d just figure it out once we got there – we packed up our camping gear, filled our panniers and off we rode towards Alburg (my bike wobbling ever so slightly) to see what we could find. An hour later, we pulled in to the hardware store driveway alongside the shop keeper who was just about to open up shop! What synchronicity!

So with my bike fixed, we were off. The Champlain Bike Route meandered along quiet back roads through empty corn fields until we reached the border 20km after Alburg. Once crossing the border, we eventually tracked down the route verte (turn west onto the route 202 for 5km). The route verte similarly wound its way through back roads of farmlands.

By lunchtime, we’d knocked off 75km having set a good average of 22km/hour. We ate alongside the River Richelieu feasting on avocado and peanut butter sandwiches and crunchy apples, while admiring the revival gothic churches on the opposite shoreline of the river.

For the next 20kms after lunch the bike path squeezed – two lanes wide – between a canal and the river. Gorgeous. And what luxury. No cars to contend with for once, just other cyclists and a giant head wind! Not that my partner actually noticed the headwind for a very long time since I was upfront and conveniently drafting. I received a slightly confused look when I announced that my turn was over: ‘Can you take over for a while please?’. And the look vanished soon enough: ‘Oh wow, this wind is strong!’ Um, yep…

I am, of course, just teasing though. We cycle well together my partner and I. Our cycling speed and style is similar. Things flow well. And when they don’t, we both appproach problem solving with a nonchalant make-do attitude; we do spontaneity well. And this is especially good because it leaves ample time for silly photo shoots, icecream stops, long drawn out picnics, and lots of ooooing and ahhhing at the amazing scenery…

And speaking of icecream shops, we found one conveniently placed at our 100km mark (synchronicty again!). It was possibly *the* most amazing icecream I’ve ever tasted. Or perhaps I was simply overjoyed by the icy coldness after having cycled 100km in 30 degree heat and a head wind!

The final 50km saw us cycle further along the canal, through the forests trails of longeil before getting hopelessly lost only 20km from downtown. Well, it wasn’t so much that we were lost. I could see many familiar landmarks. It was just incredibly difficult to find a way onto the J.Cartier Bridge. Eventually we did though. And I certainly can’t say I enjoyed the tendon jerking agony of getting up and over it. But I managed it all the same without having to walk my bike or flopping down in a hot, miserable mess!

And then suddenly, we were in the familiar chaos and buzzing energy of Montreal. Eeeeeeek…

Despite the head winds, the intense heat, getting lost and numerous icecream and food stops, we made excellent time and arrived in Montreal after 7 hours of cycling, which made for an average of 21km/hour.

After celebratory apple cider on the balcony and some scrumptious food cooked by another house mate, I was certainly ready for sleeping…

I’ve realised I prefer cooler climates for cycling. The colder weather – numb feet not included – on my cycling trip from Montreal to Ottawa was far more enjoyable than the intense heat of this trip…

But I’m certainly not complaining too hard. It was an amazing adventure. The perfect mixture of beach laziness and intense cycling mayhem.

bike grease + cycling goodness

With tulips and daffodils blooming in almost all terrace garden beds, birds chirping loudly in the trees (they’re back from the south), and Montrealers donning the latest in spring fashion, the city is alive with colour – somewhat intensified by the not-so-distant memory of the drab wintery white…

And, as far as I’m concerned, this means one thing: BIKE SEASON!!

[ASIDE: yes, some seriously twisted people who I know (you know who you are!) cycled all winter... insane. seriously.]

I’m currently concocting all sorts of plans for some spring/summer touring. Vermont? Gaspè? Charlevoix? Ah, the list goes on…

This Friday I head off on my first tour for the season: 400km return along the river to Ottawa. I’m hooking up with the Canadian Otesha crew for a meeting on behalf of the Australian Otesha crew. We plan to exchange ideas, swap resources and discuss future projects.

My bike needed a major overhaul – new crank set, new gear + brake cables, new cassette + chain… I popped in to Santropol Roulant‘s bike workshop to use their tools and learned how to replace my cassette and chain… Once I get back to Oz, I’m really keen to learn how to build a bike from scratch.

Santropol Roulant is a really interesting non-profit organisation. They use food as a central focus for connecting people across different spectrums of the community. Their main project is a meals on wheels service, where food is delivered by bicycles to people’s houses within Montreal. Other projects include: a bike workshop, rooftop garden, kitchen workshops, eco challenges…

I like that they put so much emphasis on the community building aspect of their organisation. It isn’t just a charity serving people in need. The people cooking and delivering food are also benefitting by building relationships and skills. It is a mutual exchange of services.

i saw a bear!

i almost forgot to mention. On my second last day of cycling, I saw a black bear!

Sarah and I had been cycling for a few hours. The stunning terrain – winding its way through old second growth forest – was tough. Hill after hill. We were both quite exhausted.

We were about 20 minutes away from our destination for the day and cycling up the longest hill we’d had that day. About halfway up I looked sideways into a clearing. And there, only 4 metres away, was a black bear! Yikes. I actually had to pedal closer to it to keep moving forward up the hill. As we made eye contact the bear lurched up on its hind legs and raised its nose to smell me. Heart beating ridiculously fast, I launched into turbo charged and pedalled faster than I’ve ever pedaled in my life. I was totally freaked out! Meanwhile, Sarah was about 50 meters behind me! Eeeek… Breathing heavily – almost to the point of a panic attack – I finally reached the top of the hill. My legs were screaming with pain and I could barely contain my breathing… when Sarah arrived the conversation went something like:

D: How freaky was that!

S: I know. I was so scared!

D: Oh My God!!

S: Yikes! How crazy!

(this went on for quite a while)

then…

D: I never thought I’d ever see one! Certainly not that close!

S: One what?

D: Huh? A bear!

S: Huh? Bear? What bear?

D: Back there! 4 metres from the road!

S: What? OMG! I didn’t see it! I wondered why you were cyclig so fast!

Sara had cycled straight past the bear without seeing it because a stupid car had almost run her over. She’d been talking about that incident!

Apparently black bears are not that dangerous unless you get between the mother and cubs… somehow the reality of that didn’t translate into my head very well when I found myself face-to-face with one… I have a feeling this attitudes is just like our attitude towards snakes and spiders… “oh they’re harmless. no need to worry about them” Uh huh! These beasts can out run a race horse… let alone me pedaling furiously UP a giant hill…

spooky…

hot tubs, sailing and good ole community spirit!

Whenever I travel, my belief in the power of community spirit is always reaffirmed. I’m always reminded that there are still people out there who are more interested in building community than making a quick buck. My bike tour was certainly no exception!

cycle touring adventures

As I pedalled my way up Vancouver Island and down the sunshine coast, I found myself drinking wine and relaxing in hot tubs; eating scrumptious three course meals; twinkling away at a piano over a glass (or 2) of wine; celebrating May day with an entire community (including May pole dancing!!); partaking in a giant seafood BBQ looking over a secluded beach; and various kayaking and sailing adventures, sleeping in a cute cottage overlooking the water, camping on breathtaking beaches and more!!

One hightlight was spending a week in the lush rainforests with an amazing activist artist. He took me on a tour of all the old growth trees in area, fed me all the dumpstered cream cheese bagels a girl could ever want and need, took me cycling on some gorgeous trails in the rainforest and taught me about the medicinal properties of some local plants. Many late nights talking and creating art were had. And by the end of the week I felt like I’d been there a month rather than a week. Thanks for an awesome time Lee!

Old growth Tree in Lake Cowichan

Another highlight was Quadra Island. By this stage my friend Sarah had joined the cycling mayhem. After a day’s cycling around the crazy hills of Cortez island, my bike was hiccuping and grumbling. It needed some fixing. The ballbearings needed either replacing or greasing and I didn’t have the tools to fiddle around. We were forced to hang about for a few days due to the May Day festivities that were taking place.

What better way to begin our non-cycling days than with a visit to the local pub! Before I’d taken a single sip of my beer, I began chatting with JD who turned out to be in the adventure business with the local bike fixer-up-erer! He gave me the contact details of the bike guy (well told me where I could find him the next day at the may day celebrations). When I told JD about our cycle plans for the next leg of our jounrey his eyes lit up “you can’t cycle back to Comox! You should sail straight across to Lund so you can do a full loop.” (we were effectively going to cycle a ‘giant b-shape’ due to where the ferry crossed the water). From that moment our passion for cycling adventures instantly formed a friendship…

Later that night, I eagerly told Sarah about trying to find a boat to take us across. She didn’t seem convinced. I laughed. “Yeah, our chances were pretty slim of some random person offering us a ride”. But I just couldn’t get the ide out of my head. Far stranger things have happened to me in the past…

The next day was May Day: a giant street parade, 3rd grade may pole dancers, BBQ, belly dancers, sand modelling competitions… so much fun! I ducked off to get my bike fixed and ended up bumping into JD again. He’d concocted a giant plan to get us across to Lund!

The plan: ladydan and sarah would spend a day cleaning JD’s yacht (he had a yacht?!!) and in exchange JD would organise an overnight yachting extraveganza to get us across the ocean. Oh and by the way: are you guys also interested in a two-day kayaking adventures before we head off?

sailing across from Quadra to Lund with JD and friends

Sarah could barely believe her ears when I got back to camp and told her we’d be kayaking, cleaning and sailing over the next 4 days… but kayak, clean and sail we did! The kayaking expedition saw us camping on a tiny deserted island where we sat drinking wine and watching the tide change, with lots of good food, laughter and fun. The intertidal life around the islands was amazing: brightly coloured starfish, ‘disco’ fish, sea cucumbers… and then there was the bird life!

sarah paddling on a spontaneous kayaking trip!

We left the wharf at Lund elated and sad all at once. Not only had we just had an amazing adventures, we’d built some beautiful friendships with amazing and wonderful people! JD you are simply awesome!!

And just when we thought our adventures were going to drop a notch or two… we were treated to a massive three course meal at Dennis and Kay’s house in Powell River that night! We’d not met either of them before. They’re the parents of a good friend from back in Australia. Kay showed us around her massive garden and dinner was simply a delight!

After many gorgeous cycling days and other adventures, we arrived in Vancouver just in time to join critical mass. Sarah – thank you for sharing such a wonderful journey… and thing is certain: i’ve fallen in love with this gorgeous land and the warm friendly people that reside here…